Planning Your Vegetable Garden

Before you rush out and start to plant your plot, it is worth taking some time to plan what you are going to grow, where you are going to grow it, as well as considering crop rotation  and systems such as the `no dig method` or using raised beds etc.

To get the most from your plot requires planning. A little time spent designing and planning will reap rewards later, with larger yields, less risk of disease and making the upkeep of your plot less back-breaking.

The Plot
The way you plan / design your plot will be influenced by many factors.  These will include the size and shape of the plot, where facilities such as water supplies, tool storage, compost heaps are situated, and the demands of the household and other users of the garden (you may need to protect your crops from footballs if children are playing nearby for instance!). You will also need to think about the exposure of the site and whether it will need windbreaks etc.

If your plot is going to be within a busy garden with other uses it may be advisable to install some screening, trellis is usually effective, and can be used to support plants too (for example beans) and will be effective as windbreaks. If you have dogs or cats, outdoor pets, farmyard animals, or have wild rabbits etc, you may wish to cordon off the area completely to restrict the access of these animals. Remember though not to restrict light, and some airflow is required. In fact this also applies to small children who can unknowingly do quite a bit of damage. Bless them.

Square / Rectangular Plots
The most common vegetable plot is a square or rectangular piece of land which is then planted with various rows of vegetables, these rows are moved successive seasons so that different groups of vegetables are grown in different areas each season. This is basic crop rotation. Now I`m not going to go to deeply into that in this section (its covered in the next chapter) but it is important not to grow the same vegetable in the same place year in year out as this can lead to big problems.

Another way is to split the land into four sections with paths between for access, and of course these can be made into raised beds. This is particularly good if you have a shallow  topsoil, high water table or a layer of hardpan under your topsoil. Beds like this should not be more than around 5ft wide, that way you can weed, hoe and harvest from them easily from either side, without needing to stand on the soil, which can cause compaction and damage soil structure.

When designing the layout the simple answer is usually best. Allow space for a compost heap or bins if you do not already have them as these will provide a source of organic matter / mulch in the future. Allow paths between rows, consider your water supply. Try to have your tools nearby and if room allows somewhere to sit and survey your site. This is a great little tip, it helps to have somewhere where you can contemplate the work you have done, the work that needs to be done, or just relax and enjoy a rest in between work, with a nice drink!.

Of course there are no set rules as to the shape and design of your plot, some people design their vegetable gardens in much the same way as flower beds, using the flowers, shapes, leaf types and colours etc in much the same way as you would for a conventional flower bed.

What you grow, how you plant, the systems you use are all up to you, as long as you bear in mind the basic principles behind vegetable growing.

Preparing the Plot
Once you have designed you area, you can then begin the basic landscaping. Any hard landscaping you need to do should be completed first along with fencing and windbreaks. You can the install sheds or tool stores if required as well as compost bins.

Mark out the area into beds and paths.

Then you need to prepare the soil. The work you do here in the beginning will set up your patch for future success. With the knowledge of your soil type, (clay, sandy, chalk, peat, loam) and the results of a pH test for acidity /alkalinity and possibly a fertility test for nutrient levels, you now need to use the appropriate soil improvement techniques (see article on soil types, ph and improvement).

Remember you are trying to achieve a good crumbly texture, not lumpy or sandy, to a depth of two spade blade depths. This may require double digging and adding lots of lovely organic matter, possibly grit for clay soils, and if the pH needs tweaking then add lime to raise the pH and flowers of sulphur or wood shavings to lower the pH.

This may take a lot of work depending on your soil type but it will be well worth the trouble.

Harvesting And Storage

After all your hard work growing your vegetables, comes the best part. Harvesting. It`s a time, hopefully, to enjoy the fruits of your labour.

The time of harvesting is governed by the plant reaching maturity ,the need for them to be used fresh, or whether they are to be stored, and of course the weather and the length of the growing season length.

Methods for harvesting vary from one vegetable to another. Some are simply cut off at ground level such as cabbages. A top tip with early spring and summer cabbages is that after cutting the cabbage you then cut a cross shape in the top of the remaining stalk, this encourages new growth and can produce more heads.

Some vegetables have small heads that can be harvested, like calabrese, and again these can produce more heads.

Some produce many fruits such as beans and peas, tomatoes, which can be picked as they mature.

Some, like root crops, are simply dug up when they are mature.

Some can be left in the ground for longer periods and harvested as required.

The method depends on the individual vegetable type.

Storage
The storage methods for vegetables, again, vary according to the type of vegetable.  In general the main cause of vegetables deteriorating is through water loss. You should also be sure to only store healthy crops, any showing signs of disease should be either used straight away if edible or destroyed.

Freezing
Many vegetables freeze very well and this is probably the most popular and frequently used method.

It is recommended that most vegetables that are frozen should be blanched first. Blanching is carried out by placing into steam, or boiling water before being cooled quickly.

Vegetables that freeze well include:-

• Asparagus
• Beetroot
• Brussel Sprouts
• Cabbages
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Kale
• Parsnips
• Peas
• Small and New Potatoes
• Pumpkin
• Rhubarb
• Swede
• Turnips

, and there are many more.

Winter cabbages, can be stored on a straw bed in a shed or cold frame where they are protected from frost or even in hanging nets.

Storage of Bulbous Crops
Onions, shallots, and garlic for the most part can be stored for long periods. If lifted at or near maturity, then allowed to dry in the sun, or indoors if wet outside, until the skins are paperlike in feel, they can then be stored in plaited strings or in spaced out trays.  They should then be kept in a frost free, well ventilated area.

Storage of Root Crops
Parsnips are very hardy, and in mild winters will survive very well in the ground and can be harvested as and when required.

Most other root vegetables like potatoes will require lifting and storing in a frost free environment. For your root vegetables make sure you remove all leafy material, and that you store only good, healthy, unbruised crops. Potatoes can be stored in light-proof sacks, whereas other root crops are better stored in layers in boxes. It helps to also have them stored in moist sand, to help prevent dehydration in a cool, but frost free shed.

Outdoor storage can be possible in `clamps`. These are made by putting your crop on a layer of straw and covering with more straw and sometimes a layer of soil to keep out the frost.

Storage of Fruiting Vegetables
These include cucumbers and tomatoes for example. These usually are harvested at maturity and used before they deteriorate. Sometimes they can be harvested slightly before maturity and kept cool until they are used.

If however you wish to store them for a longer period or for winter use it may be that they are best made into preserves or are frozen.

With some cultivars of marrows and squash it may be possible to store them for a few months. Pick the fruits when mature and cure them in the sun. This hardens the skin and prevents water loss. They can then be stored in a frost free environment.

Sweet peppers will keep for many months. Dig up the whole plant and hang to dry in a frost free environment.